Pepeha: A utu kia nui ki te mamae, ki te mohio pera iti ... ka mea rite ki te aroha-tamaiti, ka tae te mutunga o te tātai reta ... "Ko te Pickwick Papers" e Charles

E matau ana tatou he aha te hiahiatia hoki te ki tonu tiaki - hopi me te maperi. I teie mahana, e korero tatou anake o hopi. Ka te kōrero roa, me te kore nui noa hōhā, engari i muri i o tuhinga i te tokorua ka taea ki te matau i te hanganga hopi, nui atu i te tai'oraa i te pepeha pānuitanga koe.

papamuri hītori

I roto i nga wa onamata ki te horoi makawe i roto i te whānui, i ngā te whakamahi i te toene hua, he waiu kawa uru ki te uku. Otiia ko pea pungarehu te tauira taketake hopi tino rongonui - kua konatunatua nga toenga o nga hua parariraa ki te wai ki te whiwhi pūmau papatipu huka tino kawakore. I waenganui i te rau tau 19 te hanga ahumahi o te hopi totoka, ahei o whakamemehatanga nga ngako o te kararehe, me te take mai huawhenua. Tenei hopi rongonui rihi, i pai nei kua whakamahia e kore anake e matou kuia, engari ano hoki etahi o ana to'utangatá. ahau kaha whakahe ahau - no te mea te hopi i raro i te mana o te wai hanga pūhui rewakore (ki tai pakeke), e kua takoto i runga i te huruhuru, hanga he tohu ma, me te tanumia nga kōputaputa o te tumuaki (e maha ai alopecia whakauaua reversible).

I roto i te tekau tau tuatahi o te rau tau 20, ka puta te whakawhetai ki te kamupene Schwarzkopf te moni motuhake tuatahi mō te huruhuru horoi. Hopi rite mua i reira mo tatou katoa i roto i te taua taiwhanga Schwarzkopf i 1933 me kua atawhai moe o te wahine ka huatau huri noa te ao. He ara he kōrero rite ki e taea te tohe i te reira e tetahi o nga āhuatanga mō te kawenata e kore te patu Tiamana, a ko te Soviet Union te hiahia ki te tiki i to tatou ahumahi ka Paku (ara te wheketere Freedom, te tetahi e te vai tonu i Moscow), te tātai o te shampoos merekara Tiamana. e kore ahau e mohio me pehea pono ko tenei, engari i roto i tetahi take, puta hopi tuatahi o Russia anake i roto i te 60raa wawe o te rau tau 20. ngā te reira i kaihanga kore anake tikanga detergency (alkyl), engari glycerin emollient. Heoi, ahakoa tenei, i shampoos na "pakeke" (pH = 7-8), ka taea e tatou whakarite ratou anake e, ki te hou hopi horoi hohonu. I roto i nga tau 70 o te rau tau 20 i te tuatahi whakaurua te kamupene "Procter & Gamble" ki te hanganga o shampoos tiaki āpiha (wāhanga cationic) e kua tapiritia ki shampoos me ara he tetahi whenu ki te kaha huruhuru conditioning.

shampoos hou

Ki te rā, te hopi i te akuaku auau hei kua tata "tikanga", rite whakarato reira tiaki ngawari, kahore ritenga ki te kiri, te aroaro o ngā āhuatanga te atawhai rerekē o te makawe, he maha ngā ki pānga haumanu, me te prophylactic runga i te kiri, a ētahi wā noa mahi rite te ahua o te aromatherapy, whakawhetai ki te kakara ahuareka. Ko te aha, hopi ko tetahi o nga hua tino whakamahia nuitia Paku e tutuki te mau titauraa teitei, o nei i roto i tenei tuhinga, ka whakaaro ahau i te teretere anake me o āhuatanga kiri rite aparau i te "ahua hua waho," tona "image" i roto i te pānuitanga mākete ki ahau rawa ngā.

I roto i te pukapuka cosmetology hou ta te reira e kia riro te kounga hopi hou:

- pānga horoi pai (o te akoranga, ko tenei tona mahi matua); hoatu he pahuka i taonga i roto i te wai o tetahi pakeke (i te mea tino nui i roto i to tatou whenua nui);

- wehea pai i runga i te makawe (he nui i te wāhi o te tirohanga o te moni tenei, no te mea ko te "raruraru" tonu te iari);

- ngāwari horoia atu (ko ano hoki tenei i te tohu o "pai", rite ki te nuinga o te iwi nui i hoatu kē porotiti i runga i te wai, haunga o tawerewere hopi te ka whakapaipai te tangata pea ua);

- e kore e mukākā te tumuaki (taonga tūturu mīharo i roto i te nui haere allergenicity o te tangata hou);

- ki te whakarato i te pānga conditioning, e he ngāwari ki te köwae (pai, tohe tenei ahau, no te mea i roto i toku whakaaro, kua te mahi o balms);

- hoatu te huruhuru ahua pīataata, me te hauora (engari o te akoranga, rawa ki te tikanga o te kiritaki te he ariā rite "te viivii");

- whai i te mōkihi watea me te ahua ātaahua.

Aita i maoro a'e timata hopi ki te tāpiri tae matūriki iri - microspheres ki te pānga tāpiri o te hanga mirumiru pepa ranei. I tua atu ki te pānga ataata ngā, whakarite e ratou te haumaru o tāpiringa kai. Heoi, noa'tu eaha te ātaahua ko te hopi i roto i te ahua, e taea te aromatawai i te mooni me te painga o ona āhuatanga kiritaki i muri anake whakamahi.

Ko te tūranga o te wai i roto i te hopi

Ko te nui o te wai i roto i te hopi e taea tae 80%, kia kia matua parakore microbiologically tenei wai (ki te hopi e kore riro "hotbed" huakita). E mea titauhia e reira nga kahore tai pakeke (rino, konupūmā, konupora), e whakaiti te huka, me te rawa maha taka kore rite hohenga ahuareka. Hei haamou i te nuinga o enei tai e tapiritia nga chelates pera-ka karanga (te tikanga ko reira Trilon B).

I teie mahana, ko reira huatau ki te mea e te wai i roto i shampoos whakakapia e infusions decoctions o otaota ranei. e kore au e mōhio i reira tino he taea mai i te tangohanga otaota ko te taiao pai mo te maimoatanga o te momo o te dermatitis kore anake, engari ano hoki mo te tupu o katoa o kaiao, i roto i te mea i reira e kore te "tika" ahau. Na ano ... matou tonu e taea anake te whakapono te mea e mea ratou i roto i ngä pänui.  

Ko te taonga horoi

I roto i te Ahakoa o te taua ihirangi nui% te wai, ko tonu te pūtake o tetahi hopi te he taonga hopiwē. No te mea ki te mahi matua o te hopi tango paru, e ko te - ki te horoi! Ko te matū pūtake hopiwē he surfactants i roto i shampoos - surfactants.

āhuatanga Surfactant: 1. whakaiti i te mānukanuka mata i waenganui i te wai, me te ngako matūriki, ngä te tango o enei matūriki me te paru; 2. pahuka i hanga (i mua i te tikanga whakapono ai - te atu te pahuka i, te pai te purenga Na tenei tauākī i runga rawa pono.); 3. Hei te hanga i te whakatārewatanga o matūriki o paru i roto i te pahuka i, me te ārai i te re-whakataunga o te paru ki runga ki te makawe (he nui tenei, te kore hei utu o te horoi e whai tatou haamauiuiraa Sisyphean mahi); 4. Kua ähuareka te toe kai hopi ranei mau tonu ratou i roto i te Here rewa; 5. ake i te pokey o shampoos; 6. hoatu makawe whenu.

Whakarato detergency te nuinga surfactants anionic, nga rāpoi ngota o e roto i liposoluble (hydrophobic) wahi me te wairewa wai (hydrophilic) wahi. Ko te wairewa o te rāpoi ngota hanehane ki te hanga i ngā katote tōraro i ako. herea te wahi ngako-wairewa o te rāpoi ngota me koti nga matūriki o te paru me te secretion o repe sebaceous. Ko te wai wahi wairewa o te rāpoi ngota hāngai atu i te makawe, e te maua e te tiaki tōraro (rite mohiotia a Tangiteruru te taua utu ia atu), ai te matūriki o paru, hono ki te surfactants, makawe paopao, ka rewa i roto i te wai, me te te nekehia atu ki reira. hoki e kore tuku taetūkua ēnei wāhanga ki rite teretere me surfactants. Ko o take māori, surfactants teretere Saponifier - hua waihanga. whakamahia pinepine e rave rahi teretere i roto i te hopi: pūkawa ngāwha konutai laureth (tino whakamahia nuitia), Mariao o Ngā pūkawa alkyl Etera (konutai lauryl konupora, iti haukinia), konupora laureth pūkawa ngāwha (ngawari engari utu) saktisulfosuktsinaty (hāngai surfactants ngohengohe i runga i te waikawa succinic) peptides acyl (te hua tōhau o te hydrolyzate pūmua me te hinu kokonati).

Kei te hoki whakamahia rawa whānui te reira i surfactants cationic. E ratou he pānga hopiwē tika ngawari, engari he pai ratou "kukume" me te huruhuru tōraro whakatupato a te mahi warea o tāpiringa kai i runga i te huruhuru: waerau cationic, hydrolysates pūmua quaternized, whakato polysaccharides.

surfactants Amphoteric - i roto i ngā ki surfactants anionic ake i te harmlessness o formulations hopi, me i roto i ngā ki cationic whakarei i te pānga pai o silicones me tāpiritanga o kiri i runga i te huruhuru me te tumuaki: alkilamidopropil betaines cocoamphoacetate.

Mo'oní, ki te kōrero e pā ana ki te surfactant taea e he tino roa te wa (i roto i te meka i reira e atu kore-katote, surfactants kriptoaninovye me ara SOPA, e whai wāhi ana ki te hanga i nga tātai tino tautika), engari e whakapono ahau e taea te whakaoti tenei, kia rite ki reira timata matū tino matatini mo tatou whaktauiratia.

tāpiritanga rerehua

Opacifiers: hangaia ki te huna kanohi heterogeneity o te hua e kore ona he tae ataahua, e taea o ngā kahore huringa i roto i te waihanga, ranei ki te whakapai ake i ona āhuatanga kiritaki. I muri opacifiers tua, riro hopi atu rite te wai tiēre ranei, i te teretere tikanga (momo whare). opacifiers matū He mongamonga polymer wai.

Waikano: whakaurua ki te huna kanohi tupapaku e hiahiatia. Me waiho ratou haumaru mō kiritaki, photostable me e kore hanehane i katoa o pānga (whakawera, mīti, me ētahi atu). I roto i te nuinga o nga whenua whakaritea te whakamahi o ngā waikano. I roto i te katoa i reira e rave rahi ngā pūnaha whakaritenga - te US, Pākehā, me te Japanese. piri kaiwhakanao Russian ki waikano ture Pākehā. A i roto i te whānui - he kaupapa sooo kore te ohie, me te pai hōhā, tenei - katoa.

Kakara: haunga te meka e te mea "whakapaipai" te hua, hanga ātaahua reira mo te kaihoko, kakara, tae atu i te haunga o hiako raw. Na - whakaaro koutou e pā ana ki reira. Ki te mea kaha rawa te haunga reira, e kore te auraa e, e kore e rauemi raw kounga tiketike rawa ... kia hototahi ki ētahi atu taima hopi te hinu me te kore ki te hinga i runga i te wā (e whakapono reira e kia puritia reira i te iti rawa 3 marama). Ko te tino uaua, me te haamo'e Scheme foaki kakara hopi, tahi me korotutu me colorants taea e te take nui o tauhohe mate pāwera ki te hopi. He he he arata'iraa Pākehā noa, e tautuhi 26 allergens nui, e ai kia whakaurua ki roto ki te kakara, engari mo te take haumaru kia hiahiatia ki te tohu i runga i te tapanga, rawa ki te nui o ratou tau i te rohe.

tāpiritanga mahi

Korotutu: he matū e kua tapiritia ki poke ki te aukati i te tupu o te patu ranei microorganisms, mai kėia poke te taiao pai mō te tipu me te uri o microorganisms. Ko te tino kino tenei, no te mea kahore e whakanoatia anake microorganisms te kounga o te hua, engari hua ano hoki tāoke (paihana o take tūturu), i te mea ara e taea whakapataritari i te whanaketanga o tauhohe inflammatory, me te mate pāwera. Na e, i te viivii ore microbiological te nuinga whakawhirinaki kore anake i runga i te āhuatanga kiritaki o te hua, engari ano hoki tona pai, me te, ara e ahau e mea - haumarutanga. Tīpakonga o rokiroki i hanga fakafo'ituitui mo ia tūemi. Ko te he mahi tino uaua, mai te mea te reira e tika ana ki te tango i ki pūkete: miramira ki te whānui o microorganisms; hototahi rokiroki ki nga kai katoa o hopi; tāoke iti; pāmahana pūmautanga; pūmautanga i roto i te whānuitanga pH whanui.

korotutu Basic whakamahia: pärönaki waikawa-mangeo, ngā parabens, metilhloroizotiazolinon me methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl Urea, propylene glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben me te rite.

Thickeners (tauwehe pokey) e tapiritia ki shampoos ki te hoatu i te ōritetanga e hiahiatia ana. thickeners tika e tino whakamahia nuitia waerau hanganga he polyvinylpyrrolidone me copolymers o acrylates. thickeners hoki e taea te mahi i te tūranga o ngā hākawa glyceryl o waikawa ngakongako me polysaccharides o te tipu takenga.

āpiha Solubilizing: te āpiha motuhake e whakanui i te memehatanga o kai hei painga wairewa. E whakamahia ngā hua ethoxylated tino maha. maha whakamahia Solubilizers ki solubilize hinu. Ētahi tāpiringa i mua i whakataki ki te hopi rewa ano i roto i te solubilizers (hei tauira, te hinu jojoba, te hinu iroriki witi, huaora ngako-wairewa).

tauwehe PH: hoki te ako, kia waia ki a matou taupū hauwai, tāpiri waikawa ngohengohe (citric, lactic, phosphoric) ranei alkali (konutai waihā, ki Pālesi ranei triethanolamine). He nui mīharo te pH o te hopi, no te mea me te mea pēnei i ki te whakarite i te whai huatanga o ngā wāhanga katoa ngā i roto i tona hanganga. Ko te tikanga, kua whakapono ai e ko te reira i te pH whakatau te tohu o te ritenga kiri ina whakamahi i hopi. Ko dermatologists whakapono ko te tino tautohetia tenei kerēme, rite maha kairangahau fakamamafa'i e he āhuatanga papare pai te kiri (te kaha ki te tika pakeke ki te whakahaere rerekē i roto i ngā uara pH, arā, ki te ū te pH). Ko te mea anake e taea arahi ki te vaivai o te pūnaha pūreirei - horoia atu i te makawe, me te kiri hopi kino, engari ka ka whai ki te mahi i te tauwehe pH e kore anake, me te kore pera nui te whakaongaonga.

tāpiritanga conditioning

Tikanga hoki: te tango i te hiko pateko (kotahi ra tutaki ahau he wā - "Hair razletaemosti whakaiti"); whakaene pakaru wāhanga o te cuticle (porosity whakaene); ngä noho noa o te heru i te makawe (e rua mākū me te maroke); hoatu te whiti huruhuru me te silkiness; whakarato waiariki tiaki; hydration me kai tōtika o te makawe; ake i roto i te rōrahi makawe.

Ko te tikanga o te mahi o conditioners rangi: pānga mau puta banal aukume "+" rāpoi whakatupato conditioners ki "-" mata makawe i ako. Heoi, i roto i te tua ki te aukume, i roto i tenei take, i reira he atu whāhauhau rangi me te rāpoi ngota here ki te keratin o te makawe. huaina ana tēnei taonga ko - substantivity, whakawhetai ki a ia conditioners rangi e kore e whakaritea anake i runga i te mata o te makawe, engari te pupuri ano hoki te kaihoko painga. Kei te whakapono te reira e te pakaru wahi o te makawe i te tiaki nui tōraro me, koia, ratou tuhia atu atu "+" i ako (cationic) o nga matūriki, e ko - whakarei te pānga Paku te. I roto i te meka, Ko te aha e rave rahi tūnga waitohu rite he "tiaki atamai 'tenei.

I roto i nga painga maha o te whāhauhau rangi, miramira reira te kaha ki te hoatu i tō makawe he mōhinuhinu ataahua mīharo me te tiketike. tutuki ana tēnei i roto i taua i te conditioning rangi "kapia ake" te cuticle makawe, hanga atu maheni te mata (huruhuru ahua rerekē nui whakaata), reira te whakarei ake, kaha tae me te mōhinuhinu māori.

E, Heoi, e kore te pānga taha tino ahuareka o enei conditioners cationic semeio. Tino maha shampoos (rawa hoki rawa pakaru me te makawe tarautete) he makawe tino taimaha, te tango i nui rōrahi. I runga i tenei ki te waihanga i tētahi hopi, ki e tika ana te hangarau ū ki te toenga tika i waenganui i horoi me te conditioning kai. He nui tenei no te mea he hua nui i roto i te tāpiritanga conditioning nui impairs te rinsability me purenga hopi. Tino nui ko te pai rawa o te whāhauhau rangi. Hei tauira, te conditioning rangi tino kaha, me te whai hua ko te hinu silicone, i te mea nui atu piki haere i runga i te huruhuru (te mahara o tenei tenacious whakaponohia i roto i te hinengaro me haamana'oraa o to tatou kiritaki). Na reira, hiahia ngaio hou ki te whakamahi i te marama (ahua) silicones.

He mea nui ki te mahara e ko noa'tu te kaha, me te whakaora kahore hopi, conditioning kore e te aroaro o tāpiritanga tutakina te hiahia ki te whakamahi i te pama. He nui rawa hoki pakaru, makawe pai, me te mingimingi, me te hoki pito makawe kauruku roa tenei. Kia mahara e roto i te wāhi pakaru te mata nui ki te tiaki tōraro, a ko noa e kore te mahi o te wāhanga cationic nui.

Silicones: homai te huruhuru whenu, whiti me te silkiness, whakaiti i tiaki pateko, whakahaere heru makawe mākū me te maroke, faka'ehi'ehi mei hoko ratou (me te whakaiti i ratou i te haere o te moni mo te aua marae). Silicones i te kaha ki te amuiraa i te cuticle e te raveraa i whakaiti mahi. I tua atu, te hanga ratou he kiriata i runga i te mata o te makawe, te tiaki makawe i te fakaaoao o te taiao, me te he i te āhuatanga tiaki waiariki.

Types o silicones me ratou pānga i runga i te huru o te makawe: 1. dimethicone - hinu silicone. A ani i te mahi whakaoranga korerotia, hanga reira he umeraa mīharo, me te ata, te heru me te styling māmā ki te hanga i Heat kiriata paruru. Ka taea e paunatia iho tou makawe. 2. polioldimetikony (copolymers) - te wai silicones wairewa. A ani i te taonga ata ki tuwha te hua i roto i te huruhuru, ki te whakapai ake i styling. 3. silicones aminofunctional (amodimethicone) - riro āhuatanga conditioning me hangarua, maitai pupuri te tae o te makawe rongoa. 4. encapsulation o silicones - te whakarato anō conditioning me te whakapai ake makawe styling; succinoglycan 5. dimethicone laurate - silicone wai emmulsiya vysokomolekulchrnogo - roaa whakaora me te whakaora pānga, homai he silky, glues wahia e makawe mutu.

Tenei te he ia - ABC tiaki.