Fashion kaihoahoa Pol Puare: haurongo me te whakaahua

Ko te ngingila, te tangata whakamiharo Pol Puare tika roaa te taitara o Emperor o Paris ahua. Ko ia e kore e rite toku āhukahuka haehaa (i te mea forgivable taranata nui) "era kakahu", nga wahine tino ataahua, me te rongonui o te wā. I roto i ana kiritaki - katoa o Pākehā, tae atu ki te kāhui Russian, me te takitahi auaha. Ana to'utangata ko Koko Shanel, Zhak duše, Charlz Uort, NP Lamanova me pera i runga i. D.

Pol Puare, haurongo: te tau wawe

Next kaihoahoa ahua nui i whanau nei i roto i Paris i te utuafare kaka-kaihokohoko. Mō pehea i pakeke ki te mea i tana tamarikitanga, no te mea kahore he raraunga pono. I roto i tona pukapuka haurongo e Poiret piki hāngai ki runga i potae, huahua me pōtae, e kua i taua wa noho tona ngakau, me te whakaaro. Mai i te kuao tau kroil ia, ka tuia e ratou ake mo ratou tuahine. Ahakoa Na, i hanga taranata o te tamaiti tona ara waho, ka ui āhukahuka.

tupu ake Pol Puare ki toru tuahine, kotahi (Nicole Grult) muri mahi ki te waihanga potae, me te ara i ona ake whare ahua i roto i Paris. te rua te rongo riro ano, Heoi, ko te kua he shlyapnitsy tino. Ahakoa te kitea ahua manarūtanga tama me te mea katoa hono ki reira, e kore toku papa i hiahia ki te tango i reira tino, na onoono e kore ako te tamaiti i roto i te kura. I muri i tona tohu, ka hoatu e ia ki a ia he karere mahi i te rangatira rongonui mo te hanga o hamarara. Otiia hohoro Pol Puare (kite whakaahua. Raro) mahue te awheawhe. Tango motu o te hiraka papanga, ka o ratou kakahu tuitui tuatahi mō ngā karetao, takoha e te tuahine kotahi.

Ko te timatanga o te ara auaha

ka anga ratou mahi ariki nui heke mai ki te mahi i te kaihoahoa ahua French rongonui a ko kaikohi Jacques Doucet ka te studio o Charles Worth, kei hea te nuinga rave ia i roto i te hoahoa me te whakahāngai o te kakahu waho (koti, Ingarangi). Na kua i roto i te 1903, whakatūria Pol Puare tona whare ahua ake. Ko pono auheke, me te uira te angitu, matua e tika ana ki te hononga riro kē me te rongonui i roto i kiritaki pai, kāhui.

kaha ia whakatairangatia ana te hoki ki te ahua o nga wa onamata, a ka tapa te te kakahu rite te koti me peplos, a whakaarohia ana he Parisian hou rite tatou e mea i teie mahana, te au - te kimono.

domesticity

Pol Puare - ahua pūāhua aronganui, āhua kanapa, me te addicting. ia kihai noa i taea te tīariari, kahore te purakau. ka te reira i Deniza Bule, nei marenatia ia i roto i 1909. Ka rite ki whakaae e te ariki, ko ia te whakatinanatanga o mana'o katoa. miharo wahine ahakoa nga kawanatanga i noho me kākahu kanapa, ahurei, me te fakaofoofa hanga rawa hoki ia, whakakitea tona ataahua. i puta ia o te whakaputanga ki te hui, he sensation. He tokorua matapaki i te pāpāho, me te hapori. Pono hakari i roto i to ratou oraraa e tohe ki rawa te iwi whānui, pa ētahi wā ki te wāhi o te take. Ko reira i roto i tenei wā wā Pol Puare (kite kakahu. whakaahua) kua kite i rongo rite nga kaihoahoa ahua tino rongonui o te ao, kua rite ai ki te kaitoi, te kaihanga, me te korero ringihia ki waho, me te mea i te cornucopia.

ka rongonui rite ngā rōpū kākahu grandiose nei i mahi ia tau te tokorua, me. Ia hararei he ona kaupapa ake, engari ko te tino rongonui mō te ahiahi "1002 th Night", puritia i roto i te 1911.

Kia aroha mai, e kore nga kōrero ataahua katoa i tonu e tika ana, me te otinga. whakarerea te tokorua i roto i te tau 1928, ka timata te pūtea pai-te Poiret ki peka. He aha te mea te take pono mō te wehenga parirau i muri i nga tau kia maha, mea kahore tetahi e taea. Heoi, i roto i te uiuiraa nūpepa whakawakia Denise ia o nanakia me Poiret, i tahuri, ka karanga tona ino whanonga.

taumu'a Iwi i roto i te mahi

I roto i te 1910, i muri i te haerenga ki te "Scheherazade" ori i roto i Paris, i na faahiahia e kore ahau i taea e haere ake te ātahu me mea ngaro o te Te Tai Rāwhiti Pol Puare. Hoki te wā tuatahi i roto i ona kohikohinga he tauira ki auaha iwi, me te tau i muri mai whakaritea noa ia he rōpū kākahu kaupapa "Afe tuarua po." Couturier puta ia i roto i te puka o te ariki nui mana. I muri taua he kaupapa nui tohu-rāwhiti i roto i te kakahu mo te wa roa e nohoia socialites. tarau Wide me te pito, tarau, potae - kua meinga hei pūeru tāwāhi mō te po i roto i tenei katoa.

kāhua Russian i roto i nga mahi o kaihoahoa ahua

Hoki nga taranata Russian wā tuatahi tūpono Poiret ka haere ki ori, i pakipaki te katoa o Europe. Ngā e te taketake me te pumanawa, faaoti ia ki te haere i runga i te haerenga o Eastern Europe, tae atu Moscow ko St Petersburg. haere mai nga couturiers rongonui ki te ahuareka oti i te iwi kākahu Russian (sundresses timera, kichek, blouses, corbel, pohewa me arai whakapaipai). kawea noa ia he nui etahi o kakahu ki a koutou ki te whakapaipai o te ahua. Reka, puawai ataahua me te whakapaipai - tenei Pol Puare (kākahu whakaaturia i roto i te whakaahua) katoa e whakamahia ana ki te waihanga kohinga tuatahi o te ao o kakahu ki tohu Russian. i huaina e ia "Kazan".

Na roto i te koti Paora Poiret o

I roto i tona puka taketake i raro i tenei huānga ko ngā Russian kaiahuwhenua kākahu i matau koti purepure tika, me te hoki, neotreznoy te raina hope. koti Paora Poiret o - te tā, ripeka-hono mo te wa tuatahi mo toku wahine take Denise. Hoki ia, te whakamahi i papanga whakapaipai pouri, fakamamafa'i te taketake me te hā o te kāhua Russian.

kaihoahoa mea hanga tahuti ore

Ko feruri waho te pito pene huatau, me te sexy noa kakahu wahine o Modern. Na, ko te kōrero o tona hanganga haere hoki ki te tīmatanga o te rau tau rua tekau. "Te toitoti yubkayubka" tau - e te ka i hanga te tauira taketake. huaina Pol Puare reira e ara e tika ana ki te meka i te remu kuiti arai kaupapa, me nga wahine i takoha ki te mince, neke takahanga iti. "Pito kopa" i hanga te pūtake o kahore te silhouette anake, "pene", engari ano hoki te tau, te silhouette rongonui, me te rongonui o "e āraia ana" mo te ahiahi, me te marena potae.

Pukapuka P. Poiret

Ki whakarau me te huru ora uaua i roto i te kaihoahoa o te 1930 ka taea i roto i toru o tona pukapuka: "Fashion ko Finance", "whakakakahu i te wā", me te "Haere e hoki!". Katoa o ratou, i roto i te meka, tohu he Rōpū. mahi ngū, i kite e - ko reira he pai, he raupapa katoa o ngā ingoa rongonui, ngā i runga i te whakamārama o te hītori whakaari o te rau tau rua tekau .. Pol Puare ko te tangata o te faahiahia, me te maha ngaa tuumomo aronga, i karangatia e ia kia rite ki te pükenga i te Sorbonne, me whare ētahi wā ka whakahau ki te waihanga kākahu.

Wareware i te kaihoahoa ahua nui

Ki te 20-doma o te rau tau whakamutunga, kua tīmata he ngā ahua-feliliuaki ki mamae huringa, pānga i runga i tenei ao, me te arepurepuraa tōrangapū, whawhai. I roto i te aamu o te taiao katoa, me etahi ingoa e whakakapi e ētahi atu. Heoi i reira ki a Paora Poiret. Rawa noa i roto i ona whakataetae whakahuatia te kahore iti iho i te nui Koko Shanel. E kore taea te kaihoahoa te urutau ki te ao te huri i hohoro ai te, rite ki te hua o nei i peia e ia i te ahua Olympus. I muri i 1925 ko ia i runga i te mimiha o te rawakore, a ka takoha ki te hoko i tona studio, he kohinga o peita me ētahi atu taonga toi. mate ia i roto i te rawakore me te warewaretanga i roto i 1944. Na i te tekau tau anake me te hawhe mahara kotahi ano te whakarongo te ingoa - Pol Puare. i kitea huahua me kape Whatahoro o kakahu o te kaituhi ki tana ex-wahine. hanga Time tetahi atu a tawhio, a, i muri i te pakanga e wehingia ana, e hiahia ana te iwi kotahi mahue, kanapa, ataahua te apo.

I roto i te 2005, i te kohinga whaiaro o tana wahine me ngā tamariki kua hokona Poiret neke atu i te ono rau ngā tūemi rerekē o kakahu. i haere tahi ētahi o nga rota i whakaahua i te pūranga whānau whaiaro. Semeio tiaki mea (e kore tonu i roto i te huru pai) ka haere ki te whare taonga rongonui o te ao o te ahua.

Pol Puare - Kingi o Fashion o te rau tau rua tekau, e hoatu wahine haere noa i roto i te rongo mo'oni, me te taipe. hanga e ia he revolution i roto i rūma whakatika nga kotiro ', te tuatahi whakaarohia ki te whakarere corsets, whiri roa, ka tamata i runga i te tarau. Bright Star ariki pūmanawa, kāore, whiti poto, engari tona ingoa e tuhituhia ake i roto i te aamu.